Effectiveness of a formulation containing peptides and vitamin C in treating signs of facial aging: three clinical studies

ABSTRACT

Objective: Vitamin C and peptides are widely used in cosmetic products but there is a paucity of clinical studies showing that the formulations are effective in treating signs of facial aging. These 3 clinical studies evaluated the effectiveness of an anti-aging formula containing natural vitamin C (10%), biopeptides (rice and lupin), hyaluronic acid, and Vichy volcanic mineralizing water, in amber glass ampoules with no preservatives (Peptide-C ampoules).

Methods: Dansyl chloride fluorescence labeling compared cell turnover for Peptide-C ampoules vs untreated skin in 32 female subjects. Study 2, an open clinical study, evaluated the efficacy on wrinkles of Peptide-C ampoules by investigator clinical scoring based on Dynamical Atlas visual assessment (N=40) and subject self-assessment questionnaires (N=47). Study 3, an open clinical study, evaluated wrinkles by instrumental quantification with 3D fringe projection analysis (N=40) and subject questionnaires (N=51).

Results: The mean cell turnover was faster for skin treated with Peptide-C ampoules compared to untreated skin (17.1 days vs 19.2 days; p<.0001). In study 2, after 28 days application of Peptide-C ampoules, clinical grading of crow’s feet wrinkles, forehead wrinkles and nasolabial folds decreased by 9%, 11%, and 5%, respectively (all p<.05 vs baseline). Of 47 subjects, 77%, 64% and 79% indicated their skin seemed smoothed out, fine lines were less visible, and skin complexion was more radiant, respectively
In study 3, the number of wrinkles decreased by 11.5% after 29 days application of Peptide-C ampoules vs baseline (p<.05) and 65% of subjects responded the fine lines were less visible.

Conclusion: This formulation of a combination of anti-aging ingredients in ampoules, allowing a minimalist formula, provide significant results on improving facial wrinkles and radiance.

Keywords: formulation, peptides, vitamin C, anti-aging, skin physiology/structure, skin barrier

Sergio Escobar MD, Audrey Valois MSc, Marion Nielsen PhD, Brigitte Closs PhD,Delphine Kerob MD